MEN'S FASHION
The State Of The Suit
by Catherine Bigelow
It’s a tale of two suits. Or rather, two suit-iers: Wilkes Bashford and Al Ribaya reign as two of the snazziest sartorialists in San Francisco.
Wilkes Bashford, the store and the man, is a longtime bastion of high-end haute on Union Square that stocks such designers as Brioni, Kiton and Zegna. The chic staff offers a glass of bubbly to stalwart clients that include “folks” such as Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger, arts patron Elaine McKeon, and of course, Willie Brown.
A decidedly different vibe rules up on Grant Avenue in North Beach at Al’s Attire. Behind well-appointed display windows is the one-room salesroom, showroom and atelier (as nifty as a Hollywood set by Howard Hawks) founded by talented tailor Al Ribaya, a fixture on the handcrafted fashion scene.
North Beach neighbors wander in to say “hi” as shoppers peruse the racks of one-of-a-kind “theatrical wardrobing” created by Ribaya. Sometimes, as Ribaya completes a fitting of a bespoke suit, coat or dress (and now, bespoke shoes), one might catch a glimpse of such bold-faced Bohemian clients as Tom Waits, Dorka Keehn, Isabelle Fritz-Cope or Stanlee Gatti.
The seam that binds Bashford and Ribaya is their belief that, whatever one wears, it will only look sharp if the piece is crafted with excellent tailoring.
Willkes Bashford
Current look? The look of men’s suits right now is relatively conservative, with a softer silhouette, a look that has been around for a while. A kind of conservative, East Coast tradition with a certain formality. The shoulder is softly constructed but with structure, and the waist is recognized. The look has form to it. The color of suits is following women’s wear to a degree in that the hue is soft (gray, beige, taupe).
What about those hot lavender shirts in the Thomas Pink boutique on Post? That look should not be considered a trend. That’s a very Jermyn Street look worn by a London gentleman in a homburg hat, bold stripe suit, and shirt with a bold-patterned tie. In London, that look has been around for decades.
The Thom Browne factor? There is a move in menswear for a more fitted, tapered construction by younger designers like Thom Browne (Brooks Brothers’ Black Fleece label). From my point of view, it’s not a flattering look on most men. But he’s inspired designers to rethink lengths, especially in regards to suit coats. But they are really almost too short to be graceful on a man. Even collections once thought of as cutting-edge, like Dolce & Gabbana, are moving more to the center and more toward elegance.
Current big thing? Alternative dressing in menswear for evening. It used to be there was only one look to wear for evening events — the classic tuxedo. But with so many opportunities for a black-tie event, men, like women, don’t want to be seen wearing the same outfit.
The state of the suit? Young men are getting dressed up again. At Wilkes Bashford, we never got away from the suit. But among young men, there is a return to the suit. It’s a good time — “grunge” is behind us, “dress down Friday” is behind us; even sportswear is now chic. And knitwear has made a comeback among men.
Personal favorite? I love double-breasted suits on men. The era of menswear in the ’30s and ’40s is my favorite. The closer we get back to that period — fitted suits in chalk stripe or pin stripe with wider lapel — the better men look. In fact, I could see a return to part of that look, a broader shoulder and wider lapel that creates a slight hourglass silhouette.
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| Bashford-issue attire on the runway |
What the “kids” are wearing now? The biggest trend I see among younger people is recognizing the importance of a certain sophistication and glamour in the way they dress — the white shirt is a key look, paired with a subtly patterned tie. To accomplish that look you need a suit with great tailoring.
Return of the Ascot? There’s a small percentage of men who wear an ascot but it’s a look most men avoid. The ascot is for the man who doesn’t want to wear a necktie but doesn’t want an open collar with a bare neck. It’s a look most men can’t pull off.
Return of the vest? I would love to see the suit vest return full force. Why they won’t is that a vest adds to the cost of a suit. Though a small item, it requires lots of tailoring. So an inexpensive suit becomes expensive when you add a vest. And younger men feel constricted wearing a vest. It’s hard to bring something back that stores aren’t going to stock. If a man wants a vest, they can order one at a trunk show.
The state of the slack? For men, it’s a big deal to decide between a pleated front versus a flat front. They actually anguish over it. The flat front gained popularity during the height of the Armani era. In our store, we sell about 70 percent pleated versus 30 percent flat front slacks.
On the horizon? I think more men will start looking at the double-breasted suit. With a move toward wider lapels, a strong shoulder and a suit rendered in chalk stripe, pin stripe or solid gray flannel. The other big trend for fall is black-and-white — such as a black-and-white Glen plaid suit with a white shirt and a black-and-white geometric patterned tie. And a touch of gray to soften the look.
Al Ribaya
Current look? The look I see out there is very tailored, close to the body to accentuate an athletic build. Also, a shorter silhouette — whether that’s a shorter length in the coat or shorter sleeve length. And they want to show more shirt cuff. A lot of my clients are asking me to do that. It’s fairly close to how I normally design. But some clients want to go to the point where the article does not fit them. As a custom tailor, I assess each client’s proportion and balance it with the suit.
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| Al Ribaya in his North Beach atelier |
Current big thing? Most of my clients are more open to a nontraditional tuxedo. What makes it work is sticking to the proper proportion and amazing fabrics. Unlike the classic tux, we do a half-inch piping on the pants using a thinner roping, and the lapel material might be different. Some of my clients want multiple colors and fabrics on the surgeon’s cuff. Little sharp details are what people are looking for now.
State of the suit? Men, and women, are definitely dressing up more and paying more attention to their overall look. And it’s not just a suit — it includes the right shirt, slack and even footwear.
Do shoes maketh the man? We use both a stock wooden shoe last (basic size adjusted to the wearer’s foot) or a personalized wooden shoe last that is an exact mold of the customer’s foot. Men and women are requesting traditional designs, the best materials and lots of details. But excellent fit is the main focus.
Personal favorite? That’s a tough one. Just yesterday, I was wearing coveralls. I’m like the chef, so I’m always thinking about creating dishes for my clients. I don’t even make many clothing items for myself. In general, a well-fitted garment is my favorite. I’m just glad people are getting away from the looser, baggy fit.
Return of the Ascot? It’s more of the whole idea of “going back to the future” as, currently, the British influence is huge. Whether it’s the ascot, the tie, the vest, the bold colors. A lot of my clients are reacting to British green, that particular hunter green. I hate to use the term but British green could be the next “new black.”
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| Stanlee Gatti sports a bespoke Ribaya jacket |
Return of the vest? My clients never really got away from it, whether as part of the complete outfit or just worn by itself. It’s a look that’s worn very close to the body. As a custom tailor, I get clients who are very individual in terms of fashion. I present them with the proper color and proper fit, whatever their individual style.
The state of the slack? Definitely flat-front. Most of my clients think it’s more flattering. A few wear pleats, but with a Hollywood-waist and higher in the rise. I feel pleats only work well when pulled flat by suspenders.
On the horizon? Men are also paying more attention to details and accessories. One that works really well is the pocket square. We make everything here head-to-toe, including caps, as well as a silk pocket square with a hand-rolled edge. It introduces color without making a big investment in, say, a shirt or tie. It’s a great way to update an existing wardrobe.
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