TASTE

Bright, New & Shiny

by Steven Oliver

Things are finally starting to look and feel like “the place to be” over on Jessie Street off Fifth. When the ribbon cutting ceremony for Mint Plaza took place last fall, with all of the retail/restaurant space still under construction, it looked some what bleak and foreboding. Yes, the public open space looked all polished and new with composite stone pavers, a steel arbor with climbing vines, trees and even several rain gardens, but it needed the hustle and bustle of retail and pedestrians to bring it to life.    The new area running down Jessie towards Sixth along the old San Francisco Mint Building was consciously designed (landscape: Cmg Landscape Architecture; design engineer: Sherwood Design) to accommodate uses ranging from art exhibitions and live music to outdoor theater and sidewalk cafes, all while providing a green backdrop, a place to relax outdoors in the neighborhood, to meet friends and enjoy the urban environment.    The first of the café culture to arrive on the scene was Blue Bottle Coffee; the highly sought-after artisan micro-roasting coffee brewer/seller, whose original, odd-but-convivial kiosk is located in Hayes Valley on Linden Street behind a roll-up garage door. The new location is a much bigger venue, with kiosk-style service for those on the go, and a standing bar, much like those found in European cafés, with a small menu.    The second newcomer on the block is Jocelyn Bulow, Marc Sempere and the Maktub Group’s updated version of Chez Papa. Unlike its popular sister restaurant on Potrero Hill, this new outpost is much citified and downtown gorgeous. The contemporary interior of the 60-seat dining room was the handiwork of John Michaud of Find. Michaud pulled together a color scheme of black and orange, faux-candle Murano glass chandeliers, rosewood burl tables and an antique glass chef’s table.    Quite the elegant setting to showcase executive chef David Bazirgan’s inspired menu, featuring the Provençal cuisine of Nice, Toulon and Marseilles. There will also be outdoor seating for 88 on the heated plaza. The wine list is compiled by wine director George Aknin, so you have nothing to fear even if your server’s suggestion is unfamiliar.    The dining room is under the eye of general manager Tonino Drovandi (of Bacar and Kokkari fame), who will make sure your experience is just what you would expect, as though you’re enjoying dining in your home with friends. As they say, gorgeous gets in everywhere.   Thierry Clement is proudly boasting of his new home, L’Ardoise Bistro, which opened in the old Los Flamingos space at 151 Noe at Henry. Clement, with lineage to Fringale, Frisson and Chez Papa, opened this 38- seat bistro and invited designer Michael Brennan to enhance this small charming spot filled with finds from Paris flea markets. The ever-evolving chalk board will showcase his menu of salads, charcuterie, almond-crusted barramundi, osso bucco, and his highly requested duck confit. It’s just like visiting Paris, only less expensive.    The end of March saw the transformation of the Last Supper Club into Baretta, a new Northern Italian pizzeria from the skillful hands of executive chef/owner Ruggero Gadaldi. This new hip Mission drop-by will serve innovative cocktails, individual gourmet pizzas, and contemporary Italian-inspired food. The real emphasis is the availability of a late night menu — think 13 kinds of pizza to indulge in at the communal table with your posse. Tasting classically mixed cocktails from the focused direction of cocktail connoisseur Thad Vogler, with a rotating crop of bar friends that you’ve grown to appreciate from around town. Jeff Meisel is coordinating the Italian-dominated wine list for your enjoyment if cocktails are not your thing. Craig Berold keeps everyone in check with the responsibility of general manager, which we all know when it comes to late night, is keeping track of the kids so no one gets in trouble and everyone has a good time while being cool.      San Franciscan Steven Oliver is a restaurant manager and wine buyer. < back to stories & features

What's Hot    With Memorial Day being our diving board into summer, it seems only fitting that May is National Hamburger Month. So, What’s Hot for May is the hamburger. And do you have any idea where that patty and bun came from? No, not the first McDonalds, but rather mid-19th-C. Germany, when it was referred to as the “Hamburg Steak,” which was found in the town of Hamburg.    It’s also said that in 1885 the Menches brothers, who were serving pork sausage sandwiches at the Erie, NY, County Fair, ran out of pork and substituted ground beef, naming their creation after Hamburg, New York, where the fair was held.    This holiday BBQ and restaurant favorite has many new variations, from fast food to gourmet; enjoy your own style of hamburger with all the trimmings at these locations:    • Balboa Café, 3199 Fillmore Street    • Barney’s Gourmet Hamburgers, 3344 Steiner Street    • Bix, 56 Gold Street • Epic Roasthouse, 369 Embarcadero    • Jone’s Restaurant, 2400 Lombard Street    • Palmetto, 2032 Union Street    • Salt House, 545 Mission Street    • Taylor’s Refresher, 1 Ferry Plaza    • Tony’s Cable Car, 2500 Geary Boulevard    • Zuni Café, 1658 Market Street — S.O.

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