Hard to believe we’re pondering parkas when San Francisco’s seasonally-challenged temperature is approaching its mercurial best. But fall and fashion wait for no woman, so it’s time to think mink . . . and cashmere, and croc. Designers and retailers alike are intent on charming the change out of your pockets with irresistible luxury, fully focused on craftsmanship and value. If you’re going to charge it, please, it must pass muster at the Plaza and Four Seasons.
With more conservative buying, the editing has been done for you before it hits the store—what’s on the rack is wearable and hopefully bearable to the toned-down tune of fashion’s riff on the retail blues.
Not that the fall fashion world is flat. In fact, it’s downright Darwinian, filled to Madagascar with evolutionary references to the domesticated dog, the jungle cat, and the vampire bat, with a little slither and swampy reptile for fabulousness.
Fall calls for spikes, studs, and hounds’ teeth—not to mention the elongated canine fangs of our nocturnal friends lurking away from the Gilroy garlic. If it walks, stalks, or slinks, wear it, and you’ll get plenty of winks.
The Lady is a Vamp: Elvira, Morticia, early Dita, and bestselling teen novels are your nocturnal inspiration. Deepest violet, passionate purple, and bootjack black appear in many dark disguises. Lace and leather share equal attention, often in ladylike juxtaposition. Perfect for prowling around Pigalle or being noticed in NoPa. Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, and Lanvin were the dark horses, but Yves St. Laurent’s leather bodysuit won by a neck.
’80s Ladies: Alexis or Krystle? Blondie or Bowie? Spray or Mousse? If you admit to agonizing over any of these choices, this trend is not for you. Just when the last power suit has been banished from our closet, the younger set is poofing up their pads to look like ShyDi on a walkabout. Tight leggings as pants (ideally printed), big teased hair (think early Working Girl), and disco makeup complete the look. Neon colors a plus. Don’t forget the icky-sticky wet lip gloss . . . or please do. Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez, Michael Kors, Thakoon, and Isaac Mizrahi must have all attended high school reunions for this trend to rise from the Technicolor graveyard with such vicious abandon.
Michelle Ma Belle: The cardigan hasn’t attracted this much White House attention since Jimmy Carter, and this time around it’s cool. Mrs. O has taken cardi-dressing to a new dimension, wearing them with belts for all occasions including a visit with HRH the Queen of England (Cardi-Gate!). Use them to make skimpy dresses office-appropriate, or layer shimmery sheer ones over evening looks for that can’t-afford-to heat-the-castle look. Ralph Lauren played his cardis close to the vest, with Diane Von Furstenburg and Tory Burch offering buttoned-up looks, as well.
The Professor and Mary Ann: Tweedy fabrics fit right in for fall, designed into sensible brogues, striding-the-moors jackets, and suits that look as if Miss Marple spent her inheritance. Cashmere, wool, and fur trim abound. The houndstooth homage-a-Dior seen at Alexander McQueen was particularly sharp.
No. 2 Lead: The pencil skirt and generally slim silhouette are appealing to the eye. With the exception of big balls and fancy galas, try to walk the straight and narrow. Vera Wang, Aquilano.Rimondi, Chado, and Alexander Wang kept it slim.
The Golden Spike: For those who have yet to discover the delights of arthroscopy, the shoe situation is still-etto super sized, four-plus inches of exaggerated emphasis in unabashed and unabated glory. Tough biker-chic booties kicked it at Gucci, while Nina Ricci’s runway rocked six-inch surreal spikes.
Balletomane: For the rest of us, thankfully, ballet slippers continue to present a strong and safe alternative to the towering infernal skyscraper. Chanel and J Crew offer appealing versions (eggplant satin, yum!) or you can pick up Parisian pairs by Repetto at Saks. Make sure to buy three pair—pas de deux!
She’s Got Leggs: The greatest gams are ones that go on for miles—or just look like it. Thigh-high boots are one way to strut your stuff. Dark hose and platform ankle booties continue their stomp into Mad Max territory. Dresses and jackets stop at the hip to feature thin thighs sheathed in pattered or playful dark hose, as shown at Chanel, Alexander Wang, and Zac Posen. Do not appear cross-garter’d unless you are wearing Ro-darte or are starring in Twelfth Night.
Show Some Skin: Never smile at a crocodile, but in your wardrobe it will go the extra mile. Durable and dyeable, crocodile, alligator, and snake all create interest, texture, and luxe appeal. Hermes, Fendi, and Ferragamo are hot-blooded.
Curtains and Drapes: A certain softness was evident in many collections, with gentle draping appearing in flattering forms. Often the soft fabrics with sheen were used in conjunction with gentle colors, creating a certain cozy chic that looked attractive and approachable. Balenciaga did it best, but Donna Karan, Doo.Ri, and Carolina Herrera should take a curtain call for their versions, too.
The Game of Leopardy: The perennial power of the puss-print is back with a roar. A little leopard punches up every outfit with pattern and power. Be fearless in combining print sizes, but stick to one animal per outfit—no tiger-plus-ocelot for Cougars. Remember, leopard is a neutral, but it makes you anything but. Oscar de la Renta and Balmain’s gold and Blumarine’s bold multicolored print will try to seduce you. Koo koo ka choo.
Jennifer Raiser ’s lust for leopard print is liminal, not minimal.
