I like pink—it feels good when I am “in the pink.” I like pink shirts and shirts from Pink’s, the fashionable London-based haberdasher. I like pink ties and pink jackets, and, yes, I even like pink wines.
Speaking of pink shirts, once, when I was wearing a pink polo shirt, a five-year-old son of a friend of mine said to me, “Eeew! You’re wearing a pink shirt. Men don’t wear pink!”
I told him that his information was quite incorrect and that someday when he started to like women, he would find out that women love men who wear pink. I could also have told him that assigning pink to a specific gender began in the 1920s, though things then were just the opposite. Up until 1940, pink was a boy’s color, being related to red and masculinity, and blue was the color for girls. How that got changed all around is grist for a different mill.
The point is, just as I told my little friend—for future reference, of course—you should put aside your antipathy toward pink, especially when it comes to wines. Or, let’s call them rosé wines, a term that’s perhaps more palatable for most.
So, why rosé wines? Well, they have exciting tastes, most all countries in the world produce them, the French drink more rosé wines than white, and, if you care about your 401K, there are fine bargains in this category, simply because it’s out of fashion (that is, until you start serving and ordering more of them!).
Consider, on my list of the world’s greatest wines is included some of the best Champagnes and California sparkling wines, some of which sport a healthy pink glow. From France, surely one must mention Cuvée Dom Perignon Rosé and Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé. Though priced at about $300 for a bottle the former and $500 for the latter, they aren’t exactly “bargains,” but they are glorious!
One of the most popular rosé Champagnes is the omnipresent Billecart Salmon Rosé. This is only about $45 a bottle and is a taste knockout. From California, I have often said my one wine to take when I am exiled to a desert island is the Roederer Estate Rosé. I am amazed how often this wine comes out ahead of some of the best French efforts, and, for $25 a pop, it is eminently affordable. Two other great sparkling rosé wines are those of Mumm Napa Valley and Schramsberg, also under $30 a bottle.
At a recent tasting of Italian wines, we were treated to an obscure Italian sparkling wine, frizzante, which is a very deep pink; it thrilled the entire tasting panel. The wine was Traversa Brachetto (Traversa is the family and the brand, and Brachetto is a grape, from Italy’s Piedmont district.) I’m certain that this is what angels drink during the intermission in their weekly harp concerts—truly pure, sweet, fizzy, strawberry heaven. Once in a while a wine tastes so good that it gets a standing ovation—this is one of them. It will make you smile, even if you are doing your taxes! Seek it out, and expect to pay around $18 a pop.
We have yet to enter the wide world of still rosé wines, which are produced by every major wine-making region of the world.
Some of the best rosé wines come from France; a sure bet is the Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé for about $15, or less. Also, the Domaine de Terrebrune 2008 Côte du Provence Rosé Corail—a lively, complex example for under $30.
In California, we recognize Jeff Morgan’s unique SoloRosa venture; it’s the only winery I know of that is dedicated solely to producing quality rosé wines. Jeff has toiled effectively for the entire category and has made some headway. He notes however, “Rosé is still not a household word; I recently heard one server in a well-known steakhouse announce that rosé was now made in a white version!” Ouch! Try SolaRosa’s 2008 Russian River Valley Rosé. It is an artful blend of syrah and pinot noir.
Tasting Notes
Croft Crafts Pink Port—In an unabashed attempt to change port’s stuffy image, Croft has just come out with a “first”—a new-age port called Croft Pink, and it certainly is pink. The wine comes in a very sexy bottle; the taste is light, fruity, and crisp. The makers tell drinkers to chill this wine, serve it over the rocks, or put fizzy water into it. Wow! I am not sure how this will go over with the young set, but we shall see. It is certainly easy to sip. Croft has been crafting traditional ports, which I love, since 1678, so this was a big step for this noted house. Also in a lighter style is Warre’s Otima ten-year-old Tawny Port with its great fruit and nutty nuances.
Absinthe minded—I’m talking about the new brand, Lucid, a true and genuine absinthe, the first to come to the U.S. in almost 100 years. It’s made in the most traditional way; some of the equipment dates back to Gustave Eiffel. It is bottled at high proof and is the essence of anise and licorice—pure, pale green, and dynamite. Absinthe is the most storied drink of the French Belle Epoch. Now you can share in the tales. Comes in a sexy black bottle with green eyes!
Two fine reds—Concannon 2004 Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon—a rewarding change from super-extracted cabernets. This wine has fine fruit and a crispness on the palate that adds up to a very elegant and stylish red, lighter in style and, therefore, more graceful with food.
2005 Merlot Encore by Christian Moueix—of Chateau Petrus fame—a merlot made from right bank grapes, elegant and serious with lovely fruit and fine, up-front tannins proclaiming its French pedigree. At about $15 a bottle, this could easily become your choice house red.
Ed Schwartz has been involved in many aspects of fine wine for 30 years and has worked with top wineries in California, Italy and France. His writings on wine, food and travel have appeared in the SF Chronicle, LA Times and Image magazine.
