In the early 19th century, the original dandy, Beau Brummel, donned a double-breasted waistcoat-revealing tailcoat, trousers, boots, and a top hat. Brummel, the best friend of the Prince Regent (who would later become George IV), may have been the pioneer of the style, but let’s face it—a tailcoat and top hat may have been hot in the early 1800s, but now they are more appropriate for cheesy costume parties and lounge-act magicians. But that doesn’t mean that dandyism is out (not at all!); being a dandy is timeless. Indeed, it requires one to be timelessly up-to-date.
“A dandy is a man who is much concerned with his dress and appearance,” says Matt Fox, shopkeeper and creator of FineAndDandyShop.com. “When hearing the word dandy, one thinks of an impeccably dressed gentleman—perhaps of another era—paying great attention to every last detail of his dress.”
Being a dandy goes beyond the basics of sartorial mechanics. Dandies, historically, were generally men who were from the middle class. They were self-made, regular guys who were fighting “the man” with style.
The contemporary dandy fits those aforementioned aesthetics, but tweaks them with a modern flair. There is no wrinkle left un-ironed and no necktie left un-dimpled. The dandy of today is polished like the fellows from the days of yore, but brings in modern elements, such as vibrant colors, streamlined ties, and textured fabrics.
As the granddaddy (or should I say grand-dandy?), Brummel paved the way for the dandies we see today; in true dandy style, modern icons have their own signature style. There’s the southern dandy, such as Tom Wolfe, and the red-carpet dandy, such as George Clooney. There’s even the urbanized pop music type with Justin Timberlake, or the colorful hip-hop style of Andre Benjamin.
The dashing Patrick McDonald
Then there is Patrick McDonald—the ultimate modern dandy. Mixing glam charm with his brazen attitude, he is often seen front row at almost every New York Fashion Week show in his endearingly quirky suits, aristocratic-chic hats, and trademark eyebrows. The days of tall collars and intricate cravats may be long gone, but the dapper panache is still there.
“On one end, there is a very literal interpretation—a traditionally dressed gentleman who looks like he was picked right out of the late 1800s,” says Fox. “On the other end, there’s the guy who has been influenced to some degree by dandyism but with an ultra-contemporary interpretation. And then there’s everything in between.”
There are celebrity poster boys who run the gamut of dandyism and labels, such as Thom Browne and Band of Outsiders, and quench our thirst for bowties, tailored vests, and glen plaid. But first things first: a dandy must have the right attitude.
Dressing the part may be a simple task for many, but a modern dandy looks just as charming on the outside as he’s on the inside. Walk with confidence, not cockiness—and always be a gentleman. A snotty attitude not only wards off potential suitors, but it makes you look more garish than gallant.
Next to address: the concept of the “metrosexual.” It is a commonly held belief that this is a synonym for dandy. This is simply not true. Metrosexuals have severely manicured eyebrows, wear body-hugging, boot-cut jeans and ill-fitting blazers with their hip button-down shirts. Metrosexuals may care about how they look, but it’s in a totally different league than dandyism, where there’s a sense of the whimsical, being properly put together, and having a profound awareness for nostalgia.
A few additional dandy tips:
Mix traditional and contemporary items. For example, match a pair of jeans with a button-down and bowtie. You want to avoid, say, looking like Mr. Darcy in a production of Pride and Prejudice.
It’s all about the details. Balance out your normal wardrobe with something that screams for a compliment or a smiling raise of the eyebrows: a tie bar, distinctive socks, or even a pair of horn-rimmed spectacles.
The basic musts. A dandy’s sartorial arsenal should include three well-tailored, basic suits (in chocolate brown, navy, black), a basic tie bar, a pair of fire-engine-red socks, a pair of cufflinks that can be worn with any outfit, and a hat for winter (your choice: a fedora, newsboy, or ivy cap).
Don’t be victimized by brand names. I, like every other man, love certain designers, but when it comes down to it, it’s all about the look, not the tag on the inside.
“The dandy lifestyle can be elitist, but it doesn’t need to be,” Fox says. “One doesn’t need a lot of money. It’s not about labels. It’s about smart choices in shopping and putting together a good outfit.”
Even though Fox encourages his fellow dandies to create their own rules of style, a certain dandy swagger can’t be taught—and I’m sure Mr. Brummel could vouch for that.
Dino-Ray Ramos is a freelance fashion and entertainment writer. When he isn’t enlightening young artistic minds at the Academy of Art University as a journalism instructor, you can enjoy his playfully disgruntled discourse on his personal blog, “the finer dandy” (blog.dinoray.com).
