January is my favorite month—off to a brand new start. For those who remember their mythology, January is named after a very old Roman god, Janus. He is a two-faced deity, not in the duplicitous sense, but shown with two faces, looking in opposite directions. He is the god of gates, concrete, doorways, beginnings, and endings. One face looks backward to the old year; the other looks forward to the new.
And so shall we. Instead of letting all those tasty concoctions, cocktails, and spirits of the past fade away, I leafed through my wine-stained tasting notebook to come up with my list of the finest wines and spirits of 2009. To add drama, I have hired the San Francisco Symphony for background music. The Fourth Movement of Tchaikovsky’s Fourth Symphony will do. Lots of crashing cymbals! These superior products deserve no less.
2006 Justin Isosceles—Year after year, this is one of the very best red blends from California—refined, silky, and smooth. Right at that level is Justin’s Justification, pun intended.
2007 Patz & Hall “Zio Tony Ranch” Russian River Valley Chardonnay—I’m not enamored with most California chardonnays, but this one had us applauding at our Marin Wine Knows tasting group. Not over-extracted, but great fruit, crisp acidity, bright, complex flavors, great minerality, and, did I mention, elegance? I think it’s the best chardonnay I’ve ever had from California in years. For those who like un-oaked chardonnay, the 2007 Kunde Estate was wonderful, too.
2005 Merlot Encore by Christian Moueix—From the famed maker of Chateau Petrus and other great Bordeaux, this is a terrifically accessible, one hundred percent merlot, made with right bank grapes—elegant, serious, and utterly delicious. Now, please pay attention: it’s $15 a bottle, or so. With Petrus at $5,000 a bottle, this is a good alternative for Monday nights!
Zonin Prosecco NV—This wine was so engagingly delectable, I wanted to run out and tell the world that this is one to try. So I am! Superbly made, clean, with lovely fruit and a delicate hint of almonds. Yes, yes, I know this isn’t Champagne, but, then again, Champagne isn’t Zonin, either (so there!).
Tanqueray Rangpur Gin—This spirit is elegantly stylish. It is not, in effect, a lime-flavored gin; it is a gin distilled with excellent botanicals in the first continuous distilling process, then it goes through another pot still distillation with Rangpur limes and ginger.
This is gin magic to enjoy over pure ice.
Boudier Saffron Gin—A grand and unique product, where marketing genius (rare) meets great gin making. The Gabriel Boudier Company has been France’s leading micro-distillery since the mid-eighteenth century. Not only is this gin unique and out of this world, it is also a beautiful color, from the saffron; a color Pierre Bonnard would use to paint a sunset. Yes, you got it—French Impressionism in a bottle.
Lucid Absinthe—A new product, using the best ingredients, including grand wormwood, is a knockout in every way. The absinthe is pure and focused, with licorice leading the taste brigade. The dark bottle with the slanted green eyes casts a hypnotic effect. The spirit, bottled at 150 proof, will let you know you are faced with something fine and formidable. Not a drink for your Aunt Tillie, unless Auntie was a lumberjack in her salad days.
Taylor Fladgate Vargellas Vinha Vella 2007 Port—Deep, sweet, with layer upon layer of versatile flavor from very old vines. Intensive with one of the longest finishes I have ever tasted in any wine of any type.
Cossart Gordon 10-year-old Bual Madeira—Dark amber, amazing viscosity, fabulous taste and balance. You could sample this, run a mile, and the delicious flavor would be with you at the finish line.
Loma Linda “Always Petite” Petite Sirah—A wonderful example of the timeless essence of the Paso Robles vineyard. Rich, but not overripe. Classic.
When it comes to Scotch whisky, there are three wonders. For those who like the smoky Islay style, Bowmore 15-year-old. For a sweeter style, the Highland Park 18-year-old will satisfy every Scot gene you have in your family. And a wonder-of-wonders—Dalmore King Alexander, III. This whisky is aged in vintage Madeira, sherry, marsala, port, and bourbon casks. Talk about delicious complexity. In 1263, a member of the Mackenzie Clan saved King Alexander from being killed by a stag. That is why the bottle bears a striking white stag’s head.
2006 Klinker Brick Old Vine Zinfandel—I’m not a fan of old vine zinfandels—most of the lot are way too big, blowsy, and brassy. This is a great exception. While big and high in alcohol, this is a superbly balanced wine, rich and well structured. It’s from Lodi.
Sonoma Valley Port Works Duet—So named because some of the grapes come from the Cucamonga Valley in Southern California and some from the McLaren Vale in South Australia. This is a unique after-dinner wine with a touch of natural hazelnut.
2008 Gordon Brothers, Columbia Valley Gewurtztraminer Ice Wine—Heavenly sweet at 31.0 residual sugar. If you do get to heaven, you will be served a glass at harp concerts.
Finally, I tasted fifteen vodkas last year. They all tied for first place. I have not tried the new Bakon Vodka, or Devout Vodka, with protein added. But as they say, “Wait till next year!” Have you tried my health drink, the Vodrot? It’s vodka and fresh carrot juice. You still get spots before your eyes, but they are much clearer. Have a wonderful year!
Ed Schwartz has been involved in many aspects of fine wine for 30 years and has worked with top wineries in California, Italy and France. His writings on wine, food and travel have appeared in the SF Chronicle, LA Times and Image magazine.
