As a wine region, Lodi might surprise wine lovers. Geographically, Lodi wine country is near the San Joaquin River Delta, south of Sacramento and west of the Sierra Nevada. As a wine territory, Lodi is huge—producing twenty percent of California’s wine grapes, more than Sonoma and Napa combined.
So how come we don’t hear about Lodi very much compared to the more famous wine areas, such as Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Monterey, and other North Coast appellations? Let’s find out.
Grapes were first grown in the Lodi area around 1850, with the first commercial winery, El Pinal, founded in 1858 just north of Stockton by entrepreneur George West, a gold prospector turned wine grower. Soon, grape production focused on two warm weather grapes—zinfandel and Tokay. Tokay was especially versatile—good for eating, making wine and brandy, or fortified in the style of sherry and port. By 1900, winemaking had become an important industry.
Prohibition, which began in 1919, stopped winemaking, so the emphasis turned to table grapes. Thousands of railway cars took zinfandel and Tokay grapes, some of which were designated for home winemaking, to all parts of the U.S.
After Prohibition ended, Lodi once again became known for zinfandels and sweet wines. But by the 1960s consumer tastes were changing to table wines made from quality varietals like chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. Seedless grapes grew better south of Lodi, so the entire table grape industry was lost. Lodi, however, was up to the challenge of change. The area was granted a formal AVA appellation in 1986, and by the mid-1990s, thousands of acres were growing popular premium varieties.
There are five major wineries in the Lodi appellation—Robert Mondavi Woodbridge, Turner Road Vintners, Sutter Home Winery, Bear Creek Winery, and Oak Ridge. Lodi is also well known within the industry for providing quality grapes to over sixty leading California wineries. But along with “big” is the emergence of “small”—there also are seventy small wineries that are coming up strong and edging their way into the top-level artisanal wine game. Most of these wineries are still on the border of “unknown,” but at a recent tasting, many of their wines were found to be lush, lovely, and, being not so famous, selling at very attractive prices.
While Lodi is best known for its very ripe zinfandels and Rhone wines, there are some fine chardonnays and viogniers reaping top awards. Some of the best of Lodi wineries are: Mettler Family Vineyards, Klinker Brick, Michael-David Wines, Jessie’s Grove, Lucas, Heritage Oak, Talus Collection, Peltier Station (a great viognier), Macchia, Harney Lane, Pantheon Cellars, and St. Amant. Here are very recent tasting notes.
Harney Lane Albarino 2008—Lovely, lively, and clean with decisive, garden-fresh fruit flavors. A great balance with a luscious aroma and a full lineup of first-rate wines.
Uvaggio Vermentino 2008—An electrifying white wine full of ripe pear overtones and a wonderful grip on the finish.
Michael-David “Lust” Zinfandel 2005—A massive wine, very much on the sweet side with a 16.9 alcohol level—a blockbuster of a wine, for sure, but amazingly, it is in wonderful balance, almost port-like.
Klinker Brick Syrah 2005—This is also a big wine—sweet, balanced, and very stylish.
Mettler Family Vineyard 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon—An amazingly good wine, also on the large side. So much delicious fruit, and yet it holds together beautifully. This is simply a great wine.
Pantheon Cellars 2006 “Panthos”—An excellent Rhone varietal blend—lovely and full, with racy fruit flavors and firm tannins; complex, warming, and satisfying.
Klinker Brick 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel—This is a superbly made wine and one of the biggest and best old vine zinfandels I have ever had the pleasure to taste—rich and well structured.
Additional (non-Lodi) Tasting Notes
Oro Azul Blanco Tequila—This spirit comes from the heart of the Tequila region where the finest blue agave is found. This blanco (not aged) is 100 percent blue agave, double distilled and taken from the meat of the best agave plants. Most blancos aren’t very interesting—this one has lovely, complex tastes with delicate notes of smoke, pepper, and spices. Because of its flavor profile, it’s my first choice for fiestas and yummy margaritas! Try blanco, organic agave syrup for the sweetness, and fresh lime juice. Or, use Oro Azul in a Bloody Mary instead of vodka for a very special riff. Also try the reposado (some aging) and the anejo (two years in oak barrels).
Benedictine—This distinctive after-dinner elixir has been around since 1510, so you have something to celebrate—if you can find five hundred candles. The Benedictine formula includes twenty-seven plants and spices from around the world. If you are looking for something rich, sweet, and seductive—this would be perfect for sipping close to a warm fire. The long, storied history of this unique product is a testament to its excellence and longevity; it’s worth (re-)discovering
Tudal Family Winery 2007 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir—Wow! Delicious! So much lush fruit and sophisticated flavor, this was truly one of the best California pinot noirs I’ve enjoyed in recent memory. Tudal’s Napa Cabernet Sauvignon from the Clift Vineyard is also head of the class; wonderful winemaking.
Sand Hill 2006 Durrell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir—Rich and elegant with a typical Burgundian nose—a whiff right off the farm. This wine proves beyond doubt that California pinot noirs have become absolutely world class.
Passaggio 2008 California Unoaked Chardonnay—Folks who dislike heavily oaked, over-processed, bells and whistles, tropical, tutti-frutti Chardonnay (I for one) will float into ecstasy with this lovely pure, unadorned wine. Crisp, juicy, tasty and did I mention fabulous. Order direct at $13 a bottle (!), passaggiowines.com.
Ed Schwartz has been involved in many aspects of fine wine for 30 years and has worked with top wineries in California, Italy and France. His writings on wine, food and travel have appeared in the SF Chronicle, LA Times and Image magazine.
