It’s always interesting to learn about how something as simple as an injury sustained during a friendly day in the park can change the course of your life. Such was the case for thirty-two-year-old Matthew Accarrino. It happened one day when he was enjoying time with friends, playing Frisbee without a care in the world, and then he stumbled and fell—and realized that he’d broken his femur.
Accarrino is executive chef of SPQR (The Senate and People of Rome), where he’s been for the past six months. Before his bone-breaking injury, he’d had aspirations of becoming a professional bicycle racer. It was his interest in cycling that originally inspired his time in the kitchen.
Because of his body’s needs to keep up vigorous training and his understanding of the link between performance and diet, Accarrino was already cooking most of his own meals by the time he was a teenager and was well informed about food philosophy.
While being treated for his broken femur, it was discovered that he had a benign bone tumor. He endured a long recovery process, which included walking rehabilitation; it soon became clear that bicycle racing would not be in his future. That door closed, Arranccino turned on the TV. He spent a lot of time watching Emeril Lagasse in his early productions on the Cooking Network. With a growing interest in cooking, he, like many a teen, sought part-time restaurants work. Working in a small home-town eatery, it was quickly apparent that his kitchen skills were above average, and he was given a more important role alongside the chef/owner.
It was during this time that Accarrino reached out to Lagasse in a letter inquiring about his restaurant in New Orleans, his show, and any advice Lagasse could give him as to where he should go to further his culinary interests. A lucky coincidence furthered the correspondence; Accarrino’s father, an NBC station broadcasting manager, had a convention to attend in New Orleans; this gave Matthew the opportunity to head south and meet Emeril himself.
The meeting went well, and he was invited to join Lagasse’s restaurant for an externship and see where things would progress. They progressed well. Accarrino went on to work with Charlie Trotter in Chicago and then sought formal training at the Culinary Institute of America in New York.
He has since worked with Charlie Palmer at Metrazur, Todd English at Olives for, and Rick Moonan at Oceana. He was co-executive chef at Moonan’s RM when it launched, and part of Thomas Keller’s opening crew at the highly anticipated Per Se. In 2006, he joined Tom Colicchio at Craftsteak and a year later was named chef de cuisine for the opening of Colicchio’s Craft Los Angeles.
In the fall of 2009, the owners of SPQR recruited Accarrino to fill a void left by the sudden departure of Nate Appleman. In the first couple of months, there was a reported customer outcry because of menu changes. But now that they’ve had a chance to sample the fare, the loyal neighborhood regulars have become converts; the word on the street could not be more praising.
I recently sat down with Matthew for some one-on-one time during which his shared his thoughts while prepping for that evening’s dinner service.
Steven Oliver: Which aspect of cooking do you enjoy most?
Matthew Accarrino: Two actually. The first would be using the simplest of ingredients and creating a dish to fruition so that it becomes stimulating to your palate and the flavors are in unison. Letting the ingredients speak for the season we are experiencing. The second would be the opportunity to teach. Knowing how I started and what was shown to me from working alongside some great chefs—the mentoring aspect that you can create in your kitchen is very gratifying for all of the staff involved.
Do you have a food philosophy?
Flavor first, of course. Using your creativity as a point of view, that every guest is having a memorable food experience that comes from the inspiration of the dish, which in turn becomes the entertainment of dining. Not to over-work your ingredients so that they are still soulful and approachable. If you are going to manipulate your food, you should be doing it for a purpose.
If you could only use one cookbook for the next year, which would you choose?
I think I would go with Culinary Artistry by Andrew Dorenburg and Karen Page, but at the same time I would also be comfortable with the French Laundry Cookbook from Thomas Keller. They both demonstrate the importance of discipline and technique, which are the fundamental skills of professional standards.
What’s the most unusual place that you have eaten?
This was not so much unusual as it was a unique experience. I was visiting family in Manfredonia, Italy, for my 26th birthday. To celebrate, all of the women in my family, as well as several of the neighbors, all went out that morning and collected food from the surrounding area and brought it all back home to fix the most amazing meal I have ever eaten. It was a true countryside farmers market, the meats, the produce, the cheese—it was an entire meal prepared from everyone’s farm or backyard. The feeling that you experience when enjoying this type of meal is really indescribable.
Which celebrity chef would you most like to fix you a meal?
Ferran Adria of elBulli, but by the sounds of things I think I may have run out of time.
What are your favorite meals under $10?
When I moved from New York to Los Angeles I would go out with my kitchen crew, who knew where to get the best street food at any time of day. I had some of the best Korean BBQ and Mexican food I have ever eaten.
That’s one thing that I think is so great here in San Francisco, the cart culture happening right now.
What is your favorite junk food?
I love cookies, double chocolate chip or peanut butter. Of course it helps when you girlfriend is a pastry chef [Catherine Schimenti, pastry chef at Michael Mina]!
Now that you have become comfortable in your surroundings, how would you describe SPQR as you know it?
We are casual and small, a great combination. I have changed the menu sections, and we have transformed from regional Roman cuisine to new Italian cooking. I draw inspiration from Italy’s rich culinary traditions, which integrates classic Italian techniques and imported products with my own culinary sensibilities using local ingredients from Bay Area farms and purveyors. I am very excited to be a part of the local food scene and am very humbled by the turnout of fellow chefs and industry types who have come by to visit and experience what we are doing here. I 
like being in San Francisco, the Fillmore Street neighborhood—I like my new home!
San Franciscan Steven Oliver is a restaurant manager and wine buyer.
