Men’s fashion can be challenging, precisely because many believe that there’s not much to it. It only involves a few classic pieces; what could be so tough about that? Exactly. So, we caught up with three uniquely fashionable and well-dressed Bay Area men— Alan Malouf, general and cosmetic dentist; Martin Muller, owner of Modernism Gallery; and Richard Davis, Senior Vice President, Private Client Advisor at U.S. Bank, Bank of America Private Wealth Management—to fill us in on how they stylishly stand apart.
Where do you look to keep up on new fashion or trends?
Alan Malouf: I don’t rely on fashion magazines or necessarily follow the latest trends. I prefer to see what my favorite stores are showing and then trust my own eye.
Oscar Wilde once said, “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” This can be applied to fashion and style. It’s important that you create your own style and be comfortable with that style. In the end, fashion should be fun, and your style should be something that’s uniquely you. — Alan Malouf
Martin Muller: I’m very particular; I know exactly what I’m seeking and where to find it. So I’m not partial to advertising or magazines.
Richard Davis: Honestly, I often look to the street and take note of what I find attractive, from the bike messenger, to the truly outrageous, to the nicely turned out. I admire concern and thought put into personal appearance, and to me it doesn’t matter where it comes from.
What details do you look for when shopping?
AM: I like beautiful fabrics with a soft hand. I also like hand stitching on details such as jacket lapels, so the lapels are smooth and lay flat. When buying a jacket, I make sure the sleeve does not pucker where sewn to the body, so the shoulder is rounded and smooth. When buying a patterned sport shirt, I make sure the
pattern on the pocket lines up nicely with the pattern on the body.
MM: There are four elements that I think are most important. I look for quality fabric. I want clothes that are comfortable. Color is also very important to me; I like everything from sober/subtle colors to cheerful colors. And I look for a good cut. Is there fine detailing? Is the piece well made? Does it have a good finish?
RD: I’m very tall, 6’5”, and have always had a hard time finding clothes that fit. So I took a sewing class thinking I’d learn to make a few basics for myself. Well, I quickly learned how much work goes into creating a garment. It taught me what to look for, like double stitching, how the buttons are attached, if the stripes line up. I look for clothes that are going to last, because they need to look good, but they’re also working clothes. I’m in and out of meetings, in and out of cabs, and I need to look good all day. Also, when I shop, the personal interaction is very important to me. I like to work with someone who enjoys what their doing. I also have to be able to trust that person.
Name three must-have pieces every man should include in his wardrobe and why.
AM: Every gentleman should have a classic, navy blue blazer. It’s versatile, because it can be dressed up or down. Also, almost every color works with navy blue. A gentleman can create numerous outfits that look quite different with the same piece.
Every gentleman should have a classic dinner jacket for black-tie occasions. The classic dinner jacket has a peak or shawl lapel and can be made of fine wool, silk, or velvet. If the dinner jacket does not have a contrasting lapel, it can also be dressed down and worn with a tie for less formal occasions.
Fashion affects the way people see you, their subjective perception of who you are. In that sense, it’s relevant and interesting. — Martin Muller
Every gentleman should have comfortable dress shoes in brown and black. I’ve often noticed gentlemen wearing shoes that are much too casual for their outfit; more comfortable dress shoes will get worn more often.
MM: I find this impossibly limiting to answer. You need the sum of many parts.
RD: A white pocket square; it says that you care. A black cashmere jacket, as opposed to navy. It’s still versatile and practical. And cashmere—you can see the beauty in it. And a nice pair of shoes. I see a lot of men in great clothes, but then they have shoes with worn-down heels and scuff marks. Keeping your shoes in good condition is important.
AM: I think fashion is important because it’s an expression of individuality. I believe that a neat, well-dressed gentleman has a distinct advantage in this world.
MM: The way one dresses reflects personality, character, individuality in the same way a music collection, art collection, or library tells people about who you are. It’s a chance for every individual to express one’s self to the world, to communicate the vision of how one wants to be perceived. If you dressed like a nun or stripper, even though you’re the same person under the clothes, you convey a very different meaning with the different
I dress, really, to honor the people I meet and work with. It’s out of respect for others. It shows that I care, that I’m prepared. It’s about the environment I want us all to create together. — Richard Davis
clothes. Here I think of the person who speaks best about this, Roland Barthes, who wrote The Fashion System; he talks about how fashion connotes a great deal to the rest of the world about your identity.
RD: It’s art and human expression. It expresses our emotions, desires. It’s our plumage.
Who are your go-to menswear brands, designers or boutiques?
AM: If a gentleman has the means, there is no match for Brioni and Kiton. Their fabrics, tailoring, and styles are exquisite. Most of their garments are handmade and true couture. However, there are many more affordable designers who make wonderful clothes. It’s just a matter of finding what reflects your own personal taste and style.
MM: I go to various places depending on my needs. I like a range, from what I refer to as classics, as well as contemporary and progressive design. For more traditional clothing, I like Turnbull and Asser in London. For more contemporary, I very much like Paul Smith. For fine fabrics, wonderful wools and sweaters, I turn to Loro Piana. And for formal wear, I shop at Arnys in Paris. The selection there offers creative design, unusual color palates, and very fine fabrics.
RD: I have had tailor-made suits, but I also like ready-to-wear and then having it tailored. I tend to look for more athletic, responsive suits because of the active way I use them. I like Hickey Freeman and Joseph Abboud. Also, there’s Tom James; they come to you. And for shoes, I like Arthur Beren in Union Square; these shoes are investments, but they’ll last ten, twenty years if you take care of them.
