This is a great season for San Francisco style: strong silhouettes, classic chic, timeless treasures to wear now and then, like when the Bay Bridge is finally finished. The look is lovely but not lascivious, luxe but not laden, except with bracelets by the bushel.
Like our social set, these pieces play well with others, mixing with existing pieces with charm and chic. If you’re saving for something special, you will succeed. If your savings are spent, simply swoon and smile!
Sleek, fashionable knits from Michael Kors keep you warm and on trend
WASP Waste: The preeminence of the Anglo-Saxon Protestant may be over, but the hourglass figure makes its reappearance over full circle skirts and ladylike heels at Louis Vuitton and Lanvin. Prim is in. Get out that cross-your-heart bra and channel your inner Mamie Eisenhower.
Just Teasing: Things are getting pneumatic again. Big hair is achieved with backcombing, falls, big rollers, and hairspray to entice or enslave a new generation. Look for big ball-gowns to make a reappearance to balance the hair. Va-va-va-volume is everywhere.
Marian the Librarian: Prada put the sassy in classy with smooth hair in high buns (matched with gotta-have-it tangerine lip gloss), full skirts, and pointy-toed pumps worn with heavy cable tights. The spinster is sexy again.
Lady-Like: That twenty-four-year-old stylesetter who is Gaga continues to exert and assert considerable influence with her extreme get-ups. The latest fad? (Contraband) contact lenses “open wide” the eyes, making you look like those Keane paintings at the flea market. Crazy shoes, wild hats, imaginative accoutrements—she may be outlandish, but she has given us permission to be bare and bold (or just feel old!).
Marks the Spots: Just when you thought it was time to leave the leopard, Mrs. Robinson, fall slinks in with more spots than ever. Bags, blouses, accessories—can’t get enough of the cunning cat at Tory Burch, Cavalli, and Fendi. Purrfect.
Staying Neutral: Phoebe Philo’s beige and cream collection for Celine had a profound influence—camel, beige, tan look right again, particularly when paired with pared design and clean lines at Stella McCartney, Calvin Klein, and Hermes. Is this Dunder Mifflin corporate clothing?
Sky high heels, booties (and shooties), and animal print are in for fall; this selection from the Jimmy Choo Autumn/Winter10 collection
Knit Wit: Big, brave knits are bringing a little Love Story to the street. Dior did it up with bows and bulk. Ralph Lauren and Missoni showed squishy sweater coats; Marc Jacobs sent out sweater-and-skirt ensembles; and Givenchy and Proenza Schouler gave good Gstaad. Michael Kors and Donna Karan made streamlined sportswear their staple.
Arch Rival: You’re either teetering in high high high heels or toeing the line with pretty flats and equestrian boots. Don’t mess with Mister In-Between. Ankle-grazing booties still dominate, platforms keep pushing the bound-feet boundaries up-up-up. If you can’t handle the height, go flat out with pointy skimmers adorned with buckles and bows. Manolo, Jimmy, Louboutin—one of these is your man.
Fur Real: When Karl Lagerfeld imports an iceberg at Chanel, you know it’s time to get out your mukluks. Thumbing his gloved hand at the ubiquitous Ugg, Lagerfeld sent out a fake fur follies on shoes, bags, jackets, hats, everything. Gaultier made it gorgeous, and J.Mendel patched the pelts, while the fur flew at Dior, Rick Owens, Ferre, and Balenciaga on sleeves, skirts, and shirts. Who says you are so chic? I-nu-it!
Animal print continues to be all the rage; Fendi offers several wild options
Army Strong: Loden green and camo made their perennial push onto the fall front, rendered into brisk band jackets at Balmain and pretty princess-cut pleats at Oscar de la Renta. A touch of the tone is all you need to make military like Burberry.
Twinkle, Twinkle: Sequins have de rigeur allure for day, crystals encrust shoes, bracelets, and bags at night. Bling is definitely the thing to make you a star.
Baubles, Bangles, and Beads: Borrow a bit from Bollywood and stack those bracelets up one arm and down the other. Mix and match a batch, piling those Romanov jewels alongside your dime-store diamante. The look is amused excess, faux sho’.
Angels and Demons: Alexander McQueen’s final collection of fifteen exquisitely embroidered heaven-and-hell-inspired pieces were only available by very special order, but we suspect they will be worn by a few fans at our fall fetes. The wearing of McQueen signifies superlative style and sensitive sympathy.
Ahoy There: Navy continues its charming revival, both as a color and a motif.
St. James’ Normandy stripes are always apropos at J. Crew, or mix navy blue with black for an Yves St. Laurent statement.
Mom and Apple Pie: “Made in America” has renewed cachet, particularly when it comes to trusted sportswear brands like Woolrich, Bass, LL Bean, Sperry and Levi’s. Shop like a boy who went to prep school in 1950s New Hampshire, and add a touch of irony to your finery. A monogrammed LL Bean mini Boat and Tote makes the cutest evening bag, ever.
Reversal of Fortune: Some say there are no rules, but the most important one is not to slavishly follow them. Now is the time to try something different for you, something your grandmother said “you just don’t do.” Try vibrant colors for evening, military for day, take a look you admire and turn it upside down in a new way.
When it comes to style, you shine when you know how you wear what you’ve got, not when you show what you’ve got to wear. And don’t give up the glamour of gratitude, graciousness, and generosity. Kindness exists here in abundance, and makes everything more beautiful. When you genuinely give a greeting, show a shivering tourist how to get to Ghirardelli, thank a taxi driver for their time, you’ll be the one who shines. Or, with a nod to Annie (the Depression-era musical):
“Who cares what they’re wearing from Main Street or Savile Row/It’s what you wear from ear to ear/And not from head to toe that matters/So, Senator, so, 
janitor/ So long for a while/Remember you’re never fully dressed/Though you may wear the best/You’re never fully dressed without a smile!”
Jennifer Raiser is going for the 1950s New Hampshire prep.
