While we’ve been dashing about on summer getaways, the ever-morphing world of Bay Area cuisine has been steadily evolving. Rest well knowing that this benchmark of fine SF living stays strong. Here’s a taste of what’s keeping SF hot, even when the fog rolls in.
WAYFARE TAVERN
Of the highly anticipated openings this season, the first is celebrity chef,
The chef's counter at Wayfare Tavern
cookbook author, and Food Network personality Tyler Florence’s signature project Wayfare Tavern (585 Sacramento Street), former home of the celebrated Rubicon restaurant. The FiDi crowd will rejoice in how Florence reworked the three floors to feel like an early nineteenth century tavern, your granddad’s mountain house, and a university club room from Ralph Lauren. Think vintage paintings, maps, urns, trophies, and taxidermy (don’t get riled PETA, these animals have been stuffed and mounted for at least forty years). Historical records show that the building, which was constructed from reused street brick salvaged after the ’06 earthquake, sits on what was once labeled as the waterfront.
The focal point of the main floor is the expanded mahogany bar, wood flooring sourced directly from a turn-of-the-century-before-last Kentucky barn, and a cast-stone fireplace. Removal of the wall between the kitchen and dining room allows guests to sit at the new chefs’ counter and witness Florence and his crew at work. The menu evokes American classic with reverence paid to the early days of San Francisco and the Barbary Coast.
Now that Florence, his wife, and children call Marin County home, Tyler has two other restaurant projects in the making, to be completed before year’s end, and another outpost of his popular eponymously named Mill Valley retail shop poised to open in Napa. It’s clear: this South Carolina native is excited to be part of the culinary excitement and growth surrounding him in the Bay Area.
PROSPECT
Celebrated chef Nancy Oakes, who founded the beloved Boulevard seventeen years ago, is happy to announce the long-awaited opening of Prospect (300 Spear Street at the Infinity Towers). With partners Pam Mazzola, Kathy King,
Interior of Prospect's modern interior
and Ravi Kapur, Prospect is offering a more casual, contemporary, and modern focus than its older sibling, and that’s just fine with the younger set, as overheard at an opening party: “This is not what I expected. This sure isn’t your parents’ Boulevard!”
Prospect was born from Oakes’s desire to give her loyal Boulevard team professional and creative opportunities. Mazzola, who has been cooking alongside Oakes as co-executive chef since 1993; King, who has been the GM since 1996; and Kapur, who worked his way up through the ranks of Boulevard’s kitchen for the past eight years, are truly united with Oakes in this collaborative venture. Kapur, most recently chef de cuisine, takes on his first post as executive chef/partner, preparing contemporary American cuisine; he showcases local ingredients with global influences, bringing a focus to flavor and taste which plays between familiar and exotic. Pastry chef Elise Fineberg, previously with Taste at the Seattle Art Museum, demonstrates a refined yet rustic style where the dessert list is concerned.
Prospect’s interior features floor-to-ceiling windows allowing views of surrounding high-rises to play along with the warming elements of earth tones, reclaimed white oak floors, and chandeliers crafted from nineteenth century wrought iron.
SAISON
Saison, the signature kitchen and dining room (at Folsom and 17th) that started out being open one night a week back in July 2009, and gradually built up service to three nights, is now offering five-night-a-week service (Tuesday through
Seating allows guests a view of the kitchen in action at Saison
Saturday). French for “season,” Saison was founded by chef Joshua Skenes and sommelier Mark Bright. Skenes, who was named an SF Chronicle Rising Star Chef earlier this year, has a singular approach to his culinary goals: extract and express full, pure flavor from each ingredient. With the expanded hours comes a new seating arrangement and look; the dining room now offers semi-circle banquettes with modern Danish chairs (along with Alpaca throws), which are positioned so that guests can observe chef Skenes in the kitchen and the terrace’s now covered and heated open-wood hearth. The premier coveted service now available: a two-seat Chef’s Table featuring up to twenty courses ($500 per person). Where else do you make a reservation that requires a conference call with the chef and sommelier to customize your evening menu?
HAPA RAMEN
If you’re a Nopa regular, you probably know of former sous-chef Richie Nakano, who has spun off to start his own pop-up project, Hapa Ramen. Hapa Ramen offers unique noodle dishes using locally sourced, organic ingredients cooked with contemporary flare. You’ll appreciate Nakano’s attention to detail—his broth alone takes four days to reach its balance of readiness. You can find Nakano manning his booth at the Ferry Building Farmer’s Market (Thursdays, 10 
a.m. to 2 p.m.). For additional scheduled appearances, follow Hapa on twitter: @HapaRamen.
San Franciscan Steven Oliver is a restaurant manager and wine buyer.
