Il n’y a rien de plus chaleureux et accueillant qu’une promenade sur le boulevard . . .
Oops, sorry. When it comes to French things, I just get so excited! With the opening of Café des Amis on San Francisco’s foremost shopping and strolling boulevard (a.k.a. Union Street), Perry Butler of Perry’s, in partnership with Bacchus Management Group, brings his signature warm, inviting atmosphere, with an SF spin.
Café des Amis has taken over a landmark location on the corner of Union and Buchanan, just a half block from Perry’s, in a restaurant row that has been bustling for the past twenty years. Butler acquired the property in 2005 and the next year partnered with Tim Stannard and Bacchus to create the Café.
Chef/partner Gordon Drysdale and executive chef Ed Carew have developed a market driven, seasonal menu that combines the flavors of Southern France with a Parisian sophistication.
Chef Carew and his culinary team, which includes Justin Deering, formerly of Conduit, regularly visit the local farmers’ market, and source much produce and meat from local purveyors. Much like the french neighborhood restaurants, the purchase and use of whole animals from sustainable producers is common practice.
Wine director Andrew Green is offering a five hundred–bottle list comprised mostly of French wines from well-known regions of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and the Loire Valley, as well as little known appellations, such as Vezelay, Jasnieres, and St. Peray. Bar director Brandon Clements has crafted a list that features obscure and long forgotten classic and vintage cocktails.
Les meilleures tables dans le restaurant sont #51 et #53. Use this information wisely when making your reservations. Au revoir!
Bar Agricole
This contemporary tavern, now open in what was formerly a warehouse for the Jackson Brewery (circa 1900) at 355 11th (between Harrison and Folsom), was conceived of by Thad Vogler.
A long-time cocktail industry innovator, Vogler’s inspiration for this urban gathering spot comes from the “cocktail renaissance, great European cafés, ingredient obsession, and natural wine bars.”
The name, which means “farm bar,” nods to the venue’s sensibilities; foods are locally sourced and seasonal, drinks celebrate the rich tradition of farmhouse distilling, and the spirits have a clear lineage from the earth where the ingredients are grown to the still. (It also refers to the famous Agricole Rhums made from sugar cane in the French Caribbean.) Notably, Bar Agricole’s team—in addition to Vogler, wine director and forager Mark Ellenbogen, chef Brandon Jew, bar manager Eric Johnson, and manager Andreas Willausch—sourced and work with local producers to create custom distillates, including a farmhouse Curaçao, biodynamic brandies, and California pure cane rum.
Alexander’s Steakhouse
Alexander’s Steakhouse arrives in SF—a spin-off of its Cupertino location. (This couldn’t come at a better time, since our favorite local award-winning restaurant critic threw Morton’s zero stars in a recent review.)
GM/co-owner JC Chen and business partner/executive chef Jeffrey Stout present a menu showcasing a fine dining interpretation of the classic American steakhouse with some Japanese influences. Working with Stout and Chen are chef de cuisine Marc Zimmerman, pastry chef Dan Huynh, and wine director Eric Entrikin—currently one of only 105 Master Sommeliers in the U.S. The comfy lounge and bar space is headed up by lead mixologist Jessamine McLellan.
Highlights of the upscale, contemporary design include a three-tiered dining space, exposed brick walls, floor-to-ceiling display wine racks, skylights, banquette seating, custom Japanese shoji screens, and an exhibition kitchen. And if any of this sounds kind of familiar, it’s because it is; Alexander’s has taken over the old Bacar space at 448 Brannan (between Third and Fourth streets).
Chef Moves
Chez Papa Bistro, has announced the arrival of its new chef Shawn Paul. This thirty-seven-year-old Texas native is no stranger to the finer elements of cuisines; he has worked at Michelin-rated restaurants in England and France, plus at Palladin in New York, The French Laundry in Yountville, and Fifth Floor, Foreign Cinema, and 1300 on Fillmore, among others.
Most recently Paul was at San Francisco’s acclaimed Michael Mina. Owner Jocelyn Bulow is excited to have Paul enhancing the menu, at the same time maintaining the authentic French Provençal cuisine.
Profitez de vos amis, profitez de votre repas, et surtout profiter de votre vie!
El Rey
I’m making it official: Peter Osborne is the “King of King Street,” now that he has opened his third restaurant location, Pedro’s Cantina, there. He offers something for any taste.
MoMo’s, his first outpost, offers American/California cuisine, the house specialty being wood-fired pizzas. Next door is Pete’s Tavern, the ultimate in large-scale San Francisco sports bar with walls flanked in flat screens and a menu serving up wings, house-smoked spareribs, and BBQ brisket.
Pedro’s, next door to Pete’s, is set in eighty-five hundred square feet of high ceilinged industrial space and features a 360-degree tequila and margarita bar. The menu offers authentic street style food. And all three locations offer pretty substantial Happy Hour programs.
An Iron Congratulations!
Congratulations and a round of applause to Luce executive chef Dominique Crenn for her victorious win 
on Iron Chef America against Iron Chef Michael Symon on the Food Network. Their challenge: Battle Yogurt, for which Crenn was able to score by a nine point lead. Very impressive!
San Franciscan Steven Oliver is a restaurant manager and wine buyer.
