Seven years after setting sail from Norway, Andrew Furuseth came ashore in San Francisco in 1880, and the life of the average sailor was never the same. Furuseth, known as the “emancipator of the seaman,” might have also, accidentally, been instrumental in establishing San Francisco as a seafood mecca, a kind of “foodies’ Valhalla.”
How did this happen? “Bucko mates” and “bully skippers” were more plentiful than gold nuggets in San Francisco during the late 19th century. The Barbary Coast was a dangerous place for a good man with a strong back. Druggings, muggings, and kidnappings were a constant threat. More than one sailor seeking a cold beer along what is today’s “family-friendly” Fisherman’s Wharf would awake to find himself rounding the Horn, on a merchant sail ship, having been shanghaied after tossing back a pint
or three.
Furuseth would change all that after writing and publishing the Red Record, the WikiLeaks of its day. The publication provided an inventory of the various brutalities and oppressions practiced on seamen by officers and shore-side thugs. This record would later inform legislation such as the Seaman’s Act of 1915, which became known as the “Magna Carta of the Sea.”
Establishing a minimum quality for ship food was one of the most important components of that legislation. Merchant sailors were provided a guarantee to eat well. As a side effect, so were the residents of our storied port city.
Today San Francisco boasts more restaurants per capita than any other city in America, but it is not quantity that distinguishes these eateries, it is quality. The ever increasing number of seafood restaurants assures sailors of all persuasions that at tricks end, a bowl of chowder, fish stew, or crab cakes are only a few cobblestones away.
A few standouts among the 2011 James Beard Award semi-finalists include four out of 33 restaurants from the Bay Area: Bar Agricole, Benu, Commonwealth, and Prospect. Chefs, as finalists, include three out of 20: Charles Phan, Michael Mina, and Gary Danko. It should come as no surprise that they all offer seafood and two of the three “crew” kitchens within shouting distance of the water, especially since Gary Danko relocated to Ghiradelli Square.
Not on the list, but worthy of a sailors’ night on the town (without risk of a drubbing), are Hope and Anchor, Woodhouse Fish Co., the Blue Mermaid, the new Chowder House Grill at Boudins, and Capurro’s. All, except the first two, can be found along Fisherman’s Wharf. It might be time to reconsider your thoughts about this “tourist” neighborhood. You might also want to establish yourself as a regular here before the 200,000 landlubbers from the ‘burbs start showing up on America’s Cup (AC34) race days.
If James Beard had a list for caterers, it would probably include Global Gourmet, McCalls Events and Catering, and Paula LeDuc Fine Catering. All three make up the preferred list at the Maritime Museum, now available for events! (Yes, that was a shameless plug.) Says Lucas Shoemaker of McCalls, “When AC34 begins, seafood will become even more popular than it already is, and culinary innovation will know
no bounds!”
Fifteen teams have been confirmed for the AC34 race, including a team from China (for only the second time in the history of this race). Other nations soon to be competing for the most prestigious sporting award on the planet include France, Italy, Sweden, New Zealand, and Australia. Two teams as of this writing have not been disclosed yet.
Everyone is hoping a South American team will be in the pack, as they are always a fun crowd to watch in competitive events. Given the gastronomic legacy of Italy and France, not to mention their love of fine wine, this city will be put to the culinary test during AC34, perhaps one as challenging as the main event itself. Nobody doubts a triumphant outcome.
Not quite the Red Record, but a preliminary draft of the “People’s Plan” was recently released by the city. Mayor Edwin Lee said, “The Americas Cup is a unique opportunity to leverage our region’s transportation resources and our enthusiasm to deliver the most transit, bicycle, and pedestrian friendly international major sporting event in history!”
Furuseth, a tireless advocate for the people, and a personage whose statue used to command a perch overlooking the Embarcadero, would have been pleased.
If you have words, whispers, or waves to report pertaining to AC34, contact Ted Regan at ACthirtyfour@gmail.com.
Former US Merchant Mariner, Ted William Regan, is no stranger to maritime affairs. A native of coastal Maine, he is a graduate of the Maine Maritime Academy and an accomplished blue water expedition leader. He is also the newly appointed executive director and CEO of the recently reopened San Francisco Maritime National Park Association.
