Move over tacos. Get ready for jook, ramen, and yakitori. The newest addition to the Mission restaurant scene is Asian street food. Think a variety of comfort food spanning Chinese, Japanese, and Korean cuisine. Several new places have recently opened, or will open soon, which specialize in Asian street eats, “done right.”
WO HING GENERAL STORE
Who better to interpret Chinese street food than Charles Phan (Slanted Door, Out the Door, Heaven’s Dog, The Moss Room)? Located in the original Slanted Door space (584 Valencia Street), Wo Hing General Store pays homage to Charles’s uncle (Wo) and father (Hing), who migrated from China to Vietnam in 1951. Most know Charles and the Phan family for their expertise and passion for Vietnamese cuisine.
This new venture takes Charles back to his culinary roots—with dishes such as xiao long bao (steamed buns and dumplings with pork and shrimp wontons), jook (rice porridge), and Chinese noodle dishes. A must-order plate is the fried five-spice local squid (with jalapeños and lemon); so clean and light, it doesn’t even seem to have been fried. The starter Chinese spareribs (with a dry rub of harissa) are also excellent, but prepare for some heat.
Bar manager Brooke Arthur serves up cocktails designed to complement the savory and often fiery dishes. Try the “Laughing Water,” a mix of rye, vermouth, pineapple, and cinnamon, or the top-notch piña colada (the pineapple juice and coconut milk are fresh-pressed daily).
All of the food is enhanced by the creative interior design of Olle Lundberg, most notably his clever use of inverted woks as light fixtures. Another light installation (above the entrance), by Elaine Buckholtz, features a flurry of bold colors (reminiscent of fashion designer Paul Smith), which subtly change and rotate. The dramatic azure tile toward the back of the main room draws attention to the open kitchen. Large paintings by local artist Judy North adorn the walls of the main level. There is a long wooden bar (for standing only, Zuni-style) that runs toward a staircase leading to a mezzanine with additional seating. Overall, the space exudes modern chic with an undertone of artistic energy that springs to life in the small open kitchen. Open Monday through Saturday with continuous service from 11:30 a.m. to midnight (drinks served until 1 a.m.). Open Sunday until 10 p.m.
IZAKAYA YUZUKI
Yuko Hayashi just opened this Japanese comfort food izakaya at 598 Guerrero (in the old Ebb and Flow space across from Tartine Bakery) a few weeks ago (it’s his first restaurant). According to chef Takashi Saito, the restaurant will stick to traditional izakaya dishes (no sushi or udon here), focusing on rice, fermented ingredients, such as aged miso, yakitori (marinated chicken parts grilled on skewers), house-made tofu, and various fried and grilled items. Though the location is great (18th and Guerrero has become one of the Mission’s thriving intersections, dotted with hot spots such as Farina, Delfina and Bi-Rite Market), the interior needs more warmth and attention to design. The service is attentive, knowledgeable, and pleasant, and the food flavorful and simply presented.
Start with an order of “Pirikara Cucumber” (spicy cucumber with sesame oil) to refresh your taste buds. Ask your server for recommendations for sake by the glass, as there are some great choices at very reasonable prices. The yakitori of teba (chicken wing) is very tender, well-seasoned, and served with vinegar-marinated daikon, sliced paper-thin. For something more unusual and distinctly Japanese, ask for the “Okowa” (mochi rice with chestnuts wrapped in bamboo leaf—both flavors meld perfectly with the slightly sticky rice). Two steamed dishes that stand out are the “Renkon Manju” (lotus root dumpling with shrimp dashi broth) and “Asari Sakamushi” (dashi steamed Manila clams with sudachi). Open Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. until 10 p.m.
KEN KEN RAMEN
After operating as a cult favorite “pop-up” for the past year, owners Robert Patterson, chef Takahiro Hori, and Stefan Roesh just opened their first restaurant inside of a former noodle factory at 3378 18th Street. Ramen, a noodle of Chinese origin, was introduced to Japan in the 1900s and has become one of Japan’s most celebrated dishes—made even more popular by the invention of instant ramen in 1958. The eatery will feature classic ramen dishes such as Hokkaido crab and tonkatsu (in pork bone broth), as well as gyoza (Japanese potstickers), and artisan boba (the tapioca milk drink your kids love). Also offered are a selection of sakes, beers on draft, and a slew of Japanese small-production ales.
James Stolich has been featured in UrbanDaddy.com, AgencySpy.com, and Jenn Garbee’s intriguing book, Secret Suppers, about rogue chefs and their little known culinary lives.
