A course at Marlena Summer Camp stars pan-seared black cod in a Brentwood corn nage, along with morels, English peas and fava beans. | Photo courtesy of Tara Rudolph

A course at Marlena Summer Camp stars pan-seared black cod in a Brentwood corn nage, along with morels, English peas and fava beans. | Photo courtesy of Tara Rudolph

Michelin-starred Marlena decamps Bernal Heights for an upscale downtown popup

Every San Francisco restaurant contorted itself through a multitude of pivots to survive the pandemic. In the case of Bernal Heights’ Marlena, they actually opened during the pandemic in September 2020, and their ongoing metamorphosis is unlike any other restaurant opening story you have ever heard.

The refreshing El Capitán cocktail is composed of rum, peach syrup and lemon. | Photo courtesy of Tara Rudolph

The refreshing El Capitán cocktail is composed of rum, peach syrup and lemon. | Photo courtesy of Tara Rudolph

The seven-course meal concludes with campfire s’mores: vanilla bean marshmallows, cinnamon graham crackers and dark chocolate. | Photo courtesy of Tara Rudolph

The seven-course meal concludes with campfire s’mores: vanilla bean marshmallows, cinnamon graham crackers and dark chocolate. | Photo courtesy of Tara Rudolph

Adding plankton to the pappardelle dough yields a briny ocean flavor and vibrant hue; the pasta is accompanied by mussels steamed with white wine and alliums. | Photo courtesy of Tara Rudolph

Adding plankton to the pappardelle dough yields a briny ocean flavor and vibrant hue; the pasta is accompanied by mussels steamed with white wine and alliums. | Photo courtesy of Tara Rudolph